The Late Late Aesthetics Show, hosted by Vanessa Lana Brown (owner of VL Aesthetics in Carlisle), delivers expert insights and engaging discussions on all things skincare, aesthetics, and wellbeing.
Video Summary
In this episode of The Late Late Aesthetic Show, host Vanessa Brown sits down with the esteemed Dr. Derrick Phillips—consultant dermatologist, educator, and advocate for inclusivity in dermatological care. Known for his expertise on skin of color and his media presence across outlets like BBC and British Vogue, Dr. Phillips offers invaluable insights into skincare, aesthetics, and the critical importance of diversity in dermatology.
Breaking Barriers: Visibility and Representation in Dermatology
Dr. Phillips emphasizes that representation in medicine goes beyond science—it’s about visibility and breaking down cultural and professional barriers. His motivation stems from the lack of dermatologists of color during his own training, and he now actively uses his platform to educate both the public and aspiring medical professionals.
“It’s about being seen, being heard, and opening doors for others,” he says.
Skin of Color: One Size Does Not Fit All
One of the key themes of the discussion is the inadequate way traditional dermatology education has addressed skin of color. Historically, most medical textbooks have focused on fair skin, using features like redness as primary diagnostic indicators. But in deeper skin tones, redness may present as violaceous or may not be visible at all—leading to underdiagnoses or incorrect treatment.
Dr. Phillips warns that certain treatments common in fair-skinned patients—such as IPL (intense pulsed light) or aggressive chemical peels—can be dangerous for darker skin tones. Without proper training, practitioners risk causing burns or triggering post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, a condition particularly distressing and emotionally damaging in patients with skin of color.
“Different skin tones require different treatment protocols,” he notes. “We need to move away from one-size-fits-all medicine.”
Tailored Treatments: Safety Meets Personalization
In his clinic, Dr. Phillips doesn’t rely on pre-set protocols. Instead, he tailors each treatment to the individual’s skin type, tone, and concerns—whether it’s acne, eczema, or aesthetic rejuvenation. He frequently uses safer options for deeper skin tones, such as pico lasers or Nd:YAG lasers, which bypass superficial melanin and reduce the risk of pigmentation issues.
When patients have had prior bad experiences—particularly from improperly applied peels or untested devices—he encourages open dialogue and gentle reintroduction to treatment options. “You build trust by taking the patient on the journey with you.”
Addressing Common Misdiagnoses and Gaps in Awareness
Dr. Phillips brings attention to how skin cancer presents differently in skin of color. Unlike in fair skin, where lesions appear in sun-exposed areas, in darker skin it often appears in less obvious places—such as the soles of the feet or under the nails—and is frequently diagnosed too late.
“This is a direct consequence of poor education,” he warns, encouraging patients to regularly check their own skin and practitioners to adjust their assessments accordingly.
Navigating Aesthetics with Integrity
When it comes to aesthetic treatments, Dr. Phillips holds a cautious and ethical line, especially with younger patients. He’s an advocate for starting with skincare and sun protection and avoids treatments like preventative Botox until at least the mid-to-late 20s—unless there’s a clear medical or psychological indication.
He is particularly concerned with the rise in social media-driven beauty ideals, which he believes can pressure young people into unnecessary and sometimes unsafe treatments. “It’s about having a sensible conversation. You don’t have to capture the business today. Build trust by saying no when it’s right to.”
The Gold Standard: Dr. Phillips’ Core Anti-Aging Essentials
If there’s one non-negotiable in skincare, it’s sunscreen. Dr. Phillips, like many of his peers, champions broad-spectrum SPF 30 or 50 as the first line of defense against aging and pigmentation.
His top three ingredients for anti-aging are:
- Sunscreen (SPF 30 or 50) – Protects against UVA, UVB, and visible light damage.
- Retinoids – Stimulate collagen production, reduce fine lines, and even out pigmentation.
- Vitamin C – Antioxidant protection against environmental aggressors like pollution.
He also notes that people often under-apply sunscreen, which is why he recommends SPF 50 to ensure adequate protection even with lower-than-ideal usage.
On Collagen: Hype vs. Evidence
While collagen drinks are widely marketed, Dr. Phillips remains skeptical due to a lack of robust evidence. He acknowledges minor improvements in hydration with hydrolyzed collagen but stresses that we don’t fully understand the mechanism behind it.
Instead, he points to tried-and-tested collagen boosters: retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, and energy-based treatments like microneedling and lasers.
“There are products with a proven record—go with what works,” he advises.
Simple But Strategic: Dr. Phillips’ Skincare Routine
Despite having access to a wide array of products, Dr. Phillips keeps his skincare routine simple:
- AM: Gentle cleanser, vitamin C serum (e.g., SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF), and a hydrating SPF 50.
- PM: Cleanser, Differin (adapalene), a gentle retinoid eye cream, and a nourishing moisturizer.
- Extras: LED light therapy mask for additional rejuvenation.
No frills—just effective ingredients with real evidence.
Busting Myths, Changing the Narrative
One of the most persistent myths Dr. Phillips wants to bury? That sunscreen is only needed in summer. “UVA is present year-round—even in winter,” he says. He also wants to see a societal shift in how conditions like acne are perceived. It’s not about hygiene or bad diet—it’s a complex, multifactorial medical condition that affects people well beyond their teen years.
Final Words: Educate, Empower, Represent
Dr. Phillips leaves practitioners with a clear message: Educate yourself on skin of color and listen to your patients. Avoid imposing Western beauty standards, respect cultural differences, and demand more inclusive marketing and product testing from brands.
“Representation in marketing matters just as much as in medicine,” he concludes. “It tells people: you belong here.”
Connect with Dr. Derrick Phillips
- Instagram: @drderrickphillips
- TikTok: @drderrickphillips
- LinkedIn: Derrick Phillips
